16 cups of water, or 4 Liters, or 4000ml

My bulk substrate recipe makes around 8 - 9 pounds of substrate. I recommend a 3 pound spawn bag and 3-5
pounds of bulk per monotub. My bulk recipe makes enough for two monotubs.

You can store pasteurized bulk substrate for weeks in a sealed bucket. If it dries out you just add boiling water to pasteurize and re-hydrate it. You can wring it out to field capacity if it’s too wet. I have used mine 3 weeks after I made it and didn’t have to add water to it. Just stir it up really well before using it, to distribute the moisture that settled to the bottom.

Right before the veil breaks.

It depends. As long as the spawn bag is contamination-free, it can last for months. However, I recommend using them as soon as you get them for best results. Store them at 67F-70F.

Mushrooms don’t contain chlorophyll. That means that during colonization, your spawn bag or bulk substrate doesn’t require any light. The mycelium will colonize in complete darkness, but will also still grow with some light exposure. It is not necessary for them to be in complete darkness.

During the fruiting stage, some indirect light can be helpful. 4-12 hours of light per day is sufficient. You can use an LED or CFL light, or place your monotub in indirect sunlight provided by a window. It is very important
NOT to place the monotub in direct sunlight, as the heat from the sun will kill the mycelium. Remember, mycelium has a death temperature of 104°F (40°C).

Mushrooms grow best in a cool environment - but not too cold! 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21.1° Celsius) is an optimal temperature for colonization and fruiting. I typically keep a heater set at 70°F in the room, and this seems to yield good results during both stages.

If the temperature of the room in which you’re growing drops below 65°F, then your mushrooms will grow very slowly, or possibly even stall. Avoid high heat as well: the mycelium has a death temperature of 104°F (40°C). Keep in mind that the temperature inside your monotub will typically be a few degrees warmer than the room.

For humidity, I recommend enough humidity to keep light condensation on the sides of the tub. If it starts to bead up, drip, or pool then the humidity is too high. You can fan to reduce the humidity. When you enter the fruiting stage the humidity may drop some and you’ll see less condensation, that is okay. When the pin/fruits appear the humidity will normally return.

I keep my tubs in a room of my house with the shades down. Try to choose an area that is low traffic and keep an air purifier in the room to minimize contamination. As a final precaution, before I enter the room, I lightly spray myself down with 70% isopropyl to kill any spores that may be present on me.